It has always held true, even in the future-shaping world of fashion, that genuine change does not happen overnight. In an industry that is forever looking forward, where society’s evolutions are shaped and charted in styles both nuanced and grand-scale, it is not always the case that proclamation equals transformation. So, as we move into a new year in earnest, I want to take a moment to reflect – and happily so – on the fact that somewhere, deep in its core, over the course of a relatively few short years, fashion has indeed changed.
Fashion Now: that’s what this month’s two covers proclaim. Their stars? Models Adut Akech, Anok Yai, Majesty Amare, Amar Akway, Janet Jumbo, Maty Fall, Nyagua Ruea, Abény Nhial and Akon Changkou: a powerful cohort of reigning and emerging superstars who have not only come to rule catwalks and dominate campaigns, but have shifted the lens through which fashion is seen the world over.
They may all be global citizens these days, but every one of these brilliant models is of African descent. As is tradition, the February issue brings readers Vogue’s first distillation of the new collections, and as any fashion watcher will have seen at the season’s shows, the rise of the African model felt, at last, like a permanent revolution. No longer just one or two dark-skinned girls mingled backstage, but a host of top models took a meaningful, substantial and equal place among the most successful women working in fashion today. It means so much to me to see it. Of course, there is a question of race here. It would be inconceivable for me, as a British Ghanaian, to feel anything but personal joy at that. But the rise of African representation in modelling is not only about symbolism, nor even simple beauty standards. It is about the elevation of a continent. It is about economics, access, culture, perspective, difference and wonder. And it is here to stay.
To mark the moment, we gathered on set in London towards the end of last year, under the watchful, passionate eye of photographer Rafael Pavarotti, to create a little magic. You can see the results of that special day together in the cover shoot, while in the accompanying feature, Vogue contributing editor Funmi Fetto meets this wonderful group of young women and hears from voices across the industry – designers, casting directors, fashion veterans – for a 360-degree view. I hope you find it as fascinating a read as I did.
Nothing matters to me more than seeing the industry I love evolve for the better, and celebrating the extraordinary individuals who make that happen. So it was with a gasp of shock followed by intense grief that, in late November, I learnt of the passing of Virgil Abloh. In his far too short 41 years, this gifted designer not only achieved so much in terms of rethinking the form and function of how the world dresses, but whose compassion and care behind the scenes made room for a new generation of creatives to follow in his path. Yet, from his groundbreaking work at Off-White to his ascent to artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, his life was no mere fashion fairy tale. For Virgil, it was always about devotion to artistry, the childlike freeing of imagination and, above all, the power of personal kindness. I will miss him desperately – and fashion will, too.
The February 2022 issue of British Vogue is on newsstands on 18 January
